2026 Northern Canada – Ep. 6 – South Canol and Keno

The vegetation explodes as soon as this snowbank retreats. Afterall, we are close to August – winter is just around the corner.
In case the Yukon doesn’t have enough bog, there are giant rats damming the rivers.
Nahanni Park doesn’t have any public roads. We are relieved the gate is open and we can leave the area.
We meet a huge outfitting expedition. These cowboys are going into the mountains for 3 months. Rich customers fly in. I never imagined shooting a moose would cost a similar sum to climbing Mount Everest.

The company is called Backcountry BC and Beyond. We met the owner’s father. I had no idea that an outfitter business could scale so large. They have 45 employees. 100 horses were trailered from Cranbrook to the Yukon for this season. If you’ve got some cash burning a hole in your pocket, check out their website. Sold out for the next three years.

We arrive in Ross River, 970km since the last gas station. $2.10 per liter, expected higher.
I know what my next lawn ornament is going to be.
Some fellow in the Ross River area is looking for a woman. Pretty choosy, looking for 40-87 years old.
Along with the Alaska Highway in WWII, an oil pipeline was built from the Northwest Territories. The pipeline was abandoned almost immediately, but the Canol Road that built it remains
Yukoners are proud of their infrastructure, like there is a prize for largest sinkhole. So far, the gravel roads are not that bad, but we are making a point of avoiding the worst ones.
The mountains pop out in satellite view. I tediously scroll through all of the Yukon, zoomed right in, looking for old mining roads that will take us out of the valleys.
Occasionally we find a side road that gets up in the alpine, good for several days of hiking.
This poor Caribou has been running down the ridge ahead of us for 2 km.
The prospectors even made a little mine. And I think beavers are an industrious species. We soon learn this was a production mine, producing a truckload of lead zinc ore per day.

Mining is a brutal business. One big deposit with favorable logistics and regulations can wipe out every competing mine in the world. Zinc and lead have it particularly bad, since many other mines produce them as a byproduct when chasing silver.

Marmots are just very large gophers. They are wary when you want to take a photo, and concerningly curious when you ignore them.

Someone needs to do a YouTube channel about the thermodynamics of wild animals.

Rabbits go flat out year round, and never develop more body fat than a marathon runner. Marmots are furry meatloafs that eat grass for 2-3 months, fattening up and then going to sleep for 9 months. They’ve got it figured out.

My knee gets soar after several days of hiking, so we finish the South Canol road and head to Whitehorse, the capital. The government is huge here, and the mining companies are putting their best face forward.
I take the time to remind Marta that having four Delicas is completely normal. Germans, obviously.
We need to escape Whitehorse before Marta completely fills the van with blueberries.
With the price of gold being insane, the miners around Dawson City are thirsty for diesel. They can’t get enough tankers into Skagway, the nearest port. This trucker is driving from Edmonton, 2500km one way.  6 days round trip. His company has 18 trucks doing this.

Not feeling guilty for burning 1200 liters of fuel on a 2 month road trip.

Keno is our next stop – a historic ghost town where people forgot to leave, and the mines keep springing back to life. Excellent museum, and a house with coffee can siding. I wonder what our neighbours would say?
There are many small gold mines – which means they dig up the valley bottom and wash the gravel for a jar of gold flakes. Placer is the technical term. I’m scared to push our way into these smaller mines.
The silver mines are big and busy – the price of silver is good, and they are also cleaning up 125 years of mining mess. All underground mining, like we seen in Mexico.
Clouds are so big that they seem slow and harmless. After looking at this 2 minute time lapse, I knew it was time to get off the mountain.
We’ve mined the Keno area for all the easy to bag peaks, and it’s time for the next destination