A year ago, we drove Desigual, our first Delica down to Baja. This was an epic 7 week trip, taking highway 1 and 101 all the way down the USA from Victoria to San Diego. 5 weeks in Mexico on the Baja peninsula, and the trip finished by flying home.
We left our van in Baja last January at Loreto Storage. They pick us up at the airport, and presented us with our precious wheels, all cleaned up and running.Mexico must be hot in summer – this tube of electrolyte tablets left in Desigual was caramelized in the heat…Loreto is a gorgeous city, the first Spanish mission in Baja – 350 years ago – and now has enough resorts to justify a direct flight from Calgary.
A funny idea, taking all the hot rods with massive stereo systems and driving them through town playing techno Christmas music.
We have a torn CV boot, and a mechanic shop lets us do the work in a spare bay, and lends us a few tools.Massive mountains loom over Loreto, and made hard going for the first missionaries.The Jesuits persevered, and established San Javier, the second mission way up in the Giganta mountains. End of the paved roadThree huge alter pieces gilded in gold were brought over from Mexico.Most people think the mission sites were chosen for water and compliant populations to convert, but we know what the monks were really looking for.
From San Javier we drive south and head east at the Cueva la Serpiente into the sparsely populated ranching country in the Sierra de la Giganta.
Rancheros told us about the “big tree” so we were on the lookout for something special. 3 meters in diameter, and its roots spill down the rock, searching out a pool over water below.The Sierra Giganta mountains seem to “cement” the valley bottoms, forcing most water to run on the surface. Puma skullRanch life is marginal economically everywhere in the world. The jesuits brought over goats and cattle, and the natives that didn’t die from smallpox etc. mingled with Spaniards and still live here.We stop in front of a ranch, and Rudolfo (on the left) waves us in. This massive mostly friendly Billy goat has the run of the place.
This little guy took a long time to find Mom, and is making up for it. Looks uncomfortable Turns out Rudolfo lives as a bachelor across the valley, and he invites us to his ranch for breakfast. Clean, organized – we were surprised.This building is all made from Palm trees, and a very small number of nails. In the Baja, shade and a breeze is crucial.Rudolfo has a massive garden that he lives from. Carrots, peas, beansHe takes us on a hike up a canyon to see caves where natives camped and had fires.
Be careful what you touch in the desert. Male goats are of little value, released as a snack for the pumas. Rudolfo is a pro, and the end is quick for this little guy. Still, not easy…His truck broke in August, so I take a look. Broken fuel injector wiring harness, seized fuel pressure regulator. Hard life for a vehicle, roasting in the sun. We climb Cerro de Oscar, named for a local who had a fling with Rudolfo’s aunt. Supposedly he noticed her from this peak.
View of the Sierra de la Giganta. Would be a bad place to crash your (borrowed) droneScrambling is really slow, we spent 7 hours on this mountain – 420 meters gain. Brought 3 liters of water, would have drank 6. Supper is waiting for us. Beans, rice, macaroni, the unlucky goat.The cat is not impressed with table scraps, and goes to get his own dinner.
I wonder if we actually domesticated cats
After dinner we drive on – our house battery has gone dead and the fridge is warming up. No solar panels. We need to drive every few days, which suits us fine to keep moving.
Probably a dumping ground for a farmer?
We aren’t serious off-roaders, but it’s really nice to have real 4wd and good clearance. We couldn’t do much in the Baja with a Nissan AltimaThere were no fall rains in the Baja this year, and the ranchers are supplementing what the goats can find with alfalfa. The two bales that fell off someone’s truck would be precious – $15 each
We are shocked to see the desert get even bleaker as we roll out of the mountains to the Pacific Ocean. After 130km of dirt roads, we arrive back at asphalt close to Ciudad Insurgentes. Marta bumps tire pressure back up. As soon as we lift the hood, Mexicans start checking if we are ok. Great people.
As soon as we get to asphalt, we get nailed by a speed trap. Police are polite and friendly, but they claim we were going 92 kph in an 80 zone. I know we weren’t – we didn’t have overdrive enabled. We settle the ticket for cash and will put a GPS on the dashcam in the future.
Mexicans love tortillas so much that there are stores that only make/sell them. Supermarkets don’t even try to compete.
Marta and Chester's Maleficent Adventures 