2024-July Japan – Cycling in Japan – Marta and Chester's Maleficent Adventures

Japan truly offers something for everyone: rich culture, stunning architecture, majestic mountains, vibrant festivals, and yes—amazing cycling opportunities. From the spiritual pilgrimage to 88 temples on Shikoku Island, to the iconic Shimanami Kaido with its island-hopping bridges, and the scenic routes of Hokkaido, the options are endless.

When Zosia Zgolak and I planned our Japan trip, cycling wasn’t on the itinerary. We were all about riding the bullet trains—zipping through the countryside at speeds that made our jetlag look slow. But as opportunistic travelers (or just two people easily swayed by borrowed or rental bikes), we found ourselves embracing the chance to explore on two wheels whenever it popped up. Who needs a Shinkansen when you can turn every ride into a Tour de Japan, complete with peak breaks and occasional flat tires?

During our one-month journey, we cycled nine times. Some rides were brief, lasting only an hour, while others spanned an entire day. I came to love the freedom and expanded range that bikes provided, allowing us to explore areas we might otherwise have missed.

From mountain views to cityscapes, cycling added an extra layer of discovery to our journey!

Here’s the list of our cycling in Japan, spanning mountains, coastlines, and vibrant cities. These rides became some of our most memorable moments, offering unique glimpses of local life and landscapes. We took time to “Zen”.

Kawaguchiko, Honshu Island – July 7
Catching a glimpse of Mt. Fuji while cycling near the serene shores of Lake Kawaguchi.
Saijo, Shikoku Island – July 11
Pedaling through tranquil rice fields, along the seashore, and stopping at Shinto Shrine and Temple #66.
Akita, Honshu Island – July 17
Touching the Sea of Japan on a scenic coastal ride in Akita.
Toyako Onsen, Hokkaido Island – July 21
Riding between Lake Toya and the nearby active volcano, enjoying the surreal landscape.
Asahikawa, Hokkaido Island – July 22
Exploring the city by bike and getting a peak 😊.
Asahikawa, Hokkaido Island – July 23
A day with an unexpected challenge— a flat tire!
Wakkanai, Hokkaido Island – July 26
Chasing a magical sunset over the Sea of Japan on the northern edge of Hokkaido.
Wakkanai, Hokkaido Island – July 27
Exploring the remote and peaceful northern tip of Hokkaido Island.
Sapporo, Hokkaido Island – July 31
Zipping through the lively streets of Sapporo on e-bikes for a final cycling adventure.

Summaries:

1. Kawaguchiko – July 7 – Catching a glimpse of Mt Fuiji

Between traveling from Tokyo to Kawaguchiko, walking, and checking into our hotel, there wasn’t much time left in the day. Fortunately, bike rentals here are available by the hour (500 yean per hour). We made the most of just one hour, managing to see both Lake Kawaguchiko, one of the Fuji Five Lakes, and the majestic Mt. Fuji. At a vegie market we got some wonderful fermented something-something, and had a chance to chat with a permanent resident of Japan. The following day we climbed Mt Fuji.

Cycling on the sidewalks is allowed in Japan, but it comes with some etiquette and guidelines.

Catching a glimpse of Mt. Fuji while cycling near the serene shores of Lake Kawaguchi.

2. Saijo – July 11 – Pedaling tranquil rice fields…

We made a stop in Saijo to climb the highest mountain of Shikoku Island. We had half a day to explore the area by bike. The bikes were curtesy of our hotel and we had a blast.

We tried to figure out if we could see Mount Ishizuchi, which we planned to hike the next day.

3. Akita, Honshu Island – July 17

After a 12-hour journey by train from Kyushu Island to Akita, we stayed in a house apartment rather than a hotel. Our host turned out to be a passionate cyclist. When we asked where to rent bikes in Akita, he generously offered us his own. His wife kindly gave us a couple of bottles of water and some cookies. We only had the morning free, as we were catching a Joyful Train in the afternoon. It was fun to have this urban bike ride in Akita. We almost missed the Joyful Train because we both remembered the wrong departure time. Luckily, we can run!

Akita Prefecture is known as the origin of the Akita dogs – symbol of loyalty, protection, and courage in Japanese culture.

Thanks to our hosts who provided us with bikes, we were able to explore more of Akita than we expected

Like all the places we visited in Japan, Akita has beautiful gardens.

We touched the Sea of Japan for the very first time.

The beach was not easy to walk on because it had a lot of debris.

4. Toyako Onsen, Hokkaido Island – July 21 – Riding between Lake Toya and the nearby active volcano

Toyako Onsen is a tourist town located on the shores of Lake Toya. We came here to see Mount Usu, a volcano that has erupted four times in the past 100 years, with the most recent eruption in 2000. We were too late for that, but we still saw the impressive devastation caused by the volcano, including smoke rising from its slopes.

We also hiked a small section of the rim that is open to the public. Although it’s relatively easy to scramble to the top of Mount Usu, it is not allowed without a guide. Instead, we admired a “baby” volcano, Mount Showa-Shinzan, located just east of Mount Usu. It emerged from the fields as recently as 1943.

You might wonder why people choose to live so close to active volcanoes. The answer lies in the fertile soil—crops thrive in these areas.

After hiking the trails of Mount Usu the previous day and visiting the area destroyed in the 2000 eruption, we rented bikes to cool off.

Zosia points out Mount Usu and the area we explored by bike.

Visiting the area of destruction caused by Mount Usu’s most recent eruption in 2000.

Cooling off on bikes along the shores of Lake Toyako.

On the left is Mount Showa-Shinzan, the baby volcano born in 1943, which is still growing. On the right is the seemingly innocent Mount Usu, which last erupted as recently as 2000.

The soil in the area is fertile due to its proximity to the active volcano.

Toyako Onsen has many interesting sculptures

A museum showcasing the history of the area was great to visit. One hour was not enough. I even enjoyed exploring the fascinating virtual reality exhibits.

5. Asahikawa, Hokkaido Island – July 22

Zosia and I stopped in Asahikawa on our way to Daisetsuzan National Park with the highest peak on Hakkaido Island. We arrived here around noon. Our hotel offered two bikes, and we enjoyed exploring the area by bike. Naturally, we were drawn to find a mountain first😊 .

Our room rental included bikes! Surprisingly these bikes were great to bike. Hotel staff even gave us helmets. Naturally, we had to find a mountain. We followed trails along the Ishikari River, and arrived at the base of Arashiyama Mountain

At the base of Arashiyama Mountain, there is a museum related to the mountain and the indigenous Ainu people. Above the museum, there was a botanical garden, several models of Ainu houses, and well-laid-out trails. And a summit of course….

The viewing platform on Arashiyama Mountain offered splendid view. While there we looked at a map and spotted another peak nearby, Mount Chikabumi. You guessed right, we bagged it too.

Asahikawa has many kilometers of biking trails, including one that connects Asahikawa with Sapporo. Photo shows a section of it.

We biked back and happened upon the final day of a festival. It was winding down, so we ended up enjoying the views and tasting some interesting fresh food. We also enjoyed seeing lots of young people quietly strolling among the food stalls.

6. Asahikawa, Hokkaido Island – July 23

While traveling in Japan, we typically stayed in a single hotel for a couple of nights. This way, we had a chance to explore the area without being overwhelmed by the task of searching for a hotel or figuring out what to visit. Asahikawa is flat, and we had bikes. These two go great together. We left early in the morning. The plan was to head towards the famous Asahiyama Zoo, home to penguins and polar bears, and then hike Mount Asahiyama, which rises above the zoo.

We biked to the zoo passing through parks, temples and grocery stores. Once we arrived to our trail head the road was cordoned off. We learned it was due to a BEAR CLOSURE! Apparently, it’s not only in Canada that we face such closures! We were so close but didn’t make it to the summit 😒.

The most memorable part of the trip was when Zosia’s bike got a flat tire. She had a puncture far from the mountain. The first time we pumped the tire, it worked well and allowed us to travel many kilometers. However, on the way back, we ended up stopping at five or more places to have the tire pumped, and it wouldn’t hold air for more than 500 meters. Our backup plan was to see if we could take a bus with our bikes. Luckily, we managed to reach our hotel on our own.

We would like to extend our gratitude to the many Japanese people who were so helpful in pumping air into our flat tire!

Even getting a flat tire was interesting. Japanese people kindly pumped Zosia’s tire five or more times.

7. Wakkanai, Hokkaido Island – July 26 – chasing sunset

Wakkanai was the northernmost point of Japan we could reach with our Japan Rail Pass. It is so far north that on a clear day, you can see the Russian Sakhalin Island on the horizon. In fact, some street signs in Wakkanai are in Russian.

Zosia booked a hostel close to the JR train station and also arranged bikes for us for two days. Once we arrived, it was late in the day, and we had only a few hours before sunset. We cycled to Cape Noshappu to catch it. It was a real treat.

Biking along the shores, scanning the horizon for the Russian Sakhalin Island, we first spotted kayaks,

then a deer, followed by an entire herd of deer.

and a lighthouse, 42.7 metres high, is the tallest on the island and the second tallest in Japan, after Hinomisaki Lighthouse

We met a Chinese traveler. To the left of Zosia is Mount Rishiri, rising from the Sea of Japan. Another stratovolcano that looks like Mount Fuji, it is located on Rishiri Island in Rishiri Rebun Sarobetsu National Park.

And finally, a beautiful sunset brought happy smiles to our faces.

8. Wakkanai, Hokkaido Island – July 27 – exploring

Our train towards Sapporo was scheduled for 13:00. We had time to continue exploring until then. We first opted to cycle to a small peak which we found in Peakbagger, and completed our plan of “a peak a day”.

We then headed across the peninsula to snick a peek at the Sea of Japan from a different view point. Throughout the day we run into a Japanese traveler whom we met in our hostel the previous day. His English was great and we enjoyed our converstations.

First trip of the day: 8.5km; 320m ascent; 2:45hrs

Second trip of the day: 11.5km; 100m ascent; 1.5hrs

If there is a temple there will be ema (wooden plaques for writing wishes to the deities)

The fog in air makes it mystic. We left our bikes at the bottom of the hill

The end of our exploration, time to turn back, with Mt Rishiri rising from the Sea of Japan

9. Sapporo, Hokkaido Island by e-bikes – July 31

We reached three weeks of using our JR Pass—no more free rides around Japan 😒. Now, we were in Sapporo for five days. On the first day, we went to Otaru to see a festival. It was well worth it. If you’re in Japan, taking part in a festival is a must.

Over the following days, we explored the area, and on one of those days, we rented e-bikes, which significantly extended our range. It turned out to be our final cycling adventure in Japan. Along the way, we made a brief stop at a beach and visited the European-style Chocolate Factory—a whimsical spot with gardens and sweets. It was an eclectic mix of urban exploration, seaside views, and a touch of chocolate magic!